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You can't build a coil with these stupid things
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#11 (permalink)      2/6/2015 8:10:58 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VapingForHealth
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30 gauge nickel?
#12 (permalink)      2/6/2015 8:14:28 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Vapor
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Looks like it works pretty much like a blue handled screw driver... Twist wire around the shaft :)


Edited on 2/6/2015 at 8:22 PM. Reason:
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#13 (permalink)      2/6/2015 8:45:00 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Hartoled
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The best purpose for these things is to get new builders, who thought that they couldn't coil without one, to start building. Aside from that, it's still easy as hell to just wrap a wire around a screwdriver. It's metal, you are Man. It's your destiny to shape metal to live, move, kill, eat, and handcuff boys in your basements.

Edited on 2/6/2015 at 8:47 PM. Reason:
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#14 (permalink)      2/6/2015 9:25:02 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Schnarph
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VapingForHealth wrote:

30 gauge nickel?


Nope, 30g Kanthal A1, you might be able to tell that by the ohms. If you want to coil nickel, that's your own hell to deal with. I didn't buy the full set. I'm just glad to have a couple of these for making parallels, it works every time. I had far less success doing those by hand on the sacred blue screwdriver. I do transfer the coil to a blue screwdriver before positioning on the deck, without that I have to use a drill bit or some other coil-jig.

These Kuro jigs are just another tool to be used in conjunction with others IMO. They're far from perfect.


Edited on 2/7/2015 at 1:33 AM. Reason:
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#15 (permalink)      2/6/2015 9:28:11 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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I bet you could coil hundreds of coils very fast using one of these... coil clip coil clip....
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#16 (permalink)      2/6/2015 9:36:31 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Schnarph
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Vapor wrote:

I bet you could coil hundreds of coils very fast using one of these... coil clip coil clip....


IMO, it leaves the coil springy in a bad way. When you clip it, it starts to unwind. Thick wire is easy, thin stuff unwinds, the ID expands, and it can be a mess. I lightly pinch the parallel coils while I take them off or it would be a waste of time.

Again, these are far from perfect. Sympathy to the the OP, I get it.


Edited on 2/6/2015 at 9:37 PM. Reason:
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#17 (permalink)      2/6/2015 9:45:46 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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SteveLy
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You can do it. There is a knack to it. Just takes a little practice. You need to gently guide the cap away from the pin base to make sure you don't get overlapping wraps. Once you have 3-4 wraps started, it becomes easier from there on. But you still need to kind of nudge that cap along as you turn it.

Some photos below for 29 and twisted 30 gauge (but ordinary 31 AGW nickel is also doable). Be sure to pull apart the windings a little after making the coil: just grab the coil at either end and pull. So these coils are not ready-to-go yet: DNA 40 misbehaves unless you have gaps between the wraps (as I was reminded with the build in the second photo).

Nickel 29 AGW:



Twisted twin nickel 30 AGW:


Edited on 2/7/2015 at 3:36 AM. Reason:
V = dU/dq | I = dq/dt | P = dU/dt = V·I | V = I·R
#18 (permalink)      2/7/2015 1:18:37 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Vicious1
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Nice job SteveLy
I like my "Stupid Coilers" as well. They work real well once you surpass the small learning curve.
#19 (permalink)      2/7/2015 1:36:06 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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SteveLy
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Another tip. For nickel I undo one of the screws on the coiling cap and have the wire run under the screw head. I find it easier to guide the wire and get it to go where I want to this way. Your milage may vary. Experiment and see what works best for you. Good lighting so you can see what you're doing is essential. If your eyesight isn't too good, one of these may also help: SKU 1936305
V = dU/dq | I = dq/dt | P = dU/dt = V·I | V = I·R
#20 (permalink)      2/7/2015 1:43:44 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
chiefjls
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11111Lemo with nickel bad idea everything works Fine after the first tank but as soon as you take it off refill and put it back on its haywire. A russian/croatian guy has already posted on youtube recently about the bad connection between the lemo deck and base. I lost three good lemos because of this damn nickel wire. In hind sight I probably shouldn't of binned them but dammit they pissed me off so. It was either break the lemos in rage or throw away the vaporshark. I took the lesser route.

111111I haven't tried a twisted 30 gauge though. I'm using 28 and 26 gauge ni200. I've built so many coils with these kuros. Its pretty easy. I could see where 30 gauge wire would be alittle bit trickier.
Don't press in as you wind. Just wind it normally.

26 gauge wire and higher put your screw in the number 1 hole.
24 gauge and lower your hex screw needs to be in the number 2 slot.

I hope this helps. The holes could be your problem. If you have the hex screws in the right holes then its more than likely a technique issue. Its like stupid easy to wrap with these. If you flip your coil around backwards and reinsert it onto the shaft you can use the cap to tighten the coil too.

Edited on 2/7/2015 at 2:07 AM. Reason: update
#21 (permalink)      2/7/2015 2:02:47 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
chiefjls
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Just pulled some 30 gauge a1 kanthal from the back of the cabinet and wrapped a 2mm coil just to make sure i wasn't making an ass of myself. It worked. Flipped the coil around and tightened it. I think someone said it in one of these posts just let the wire guide itself. Don't push the two halves tightly together.
Now what to do with this wee baby coil.