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Protection against liquids in SXK BB 60W?
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#1 (permalink)      4/4/2022 7:34:23 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
wahuka
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Protection against liquids in SXK BB 60W?
Good friends.
I understand that the SXK BB does not come with insulator in the positive (where the bridge and the positive pole are touched) as if it brings the original BB.
Does anyone know some way to seal so that it does not fall between liquid on the circuit board and on the screen? I guess Sacanco The Plate Circuit was in view of the positive pole. Could some kind of silicone or another product be given to seal completely and prevent the circuit from dying and the screen?
I would like that those who know about this topic can help us.

A greeting to all.
#2 (permalink)      4/4/2022 8:03:31 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Gigirat67
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I haven’t found the solution to that one but I have recently ´inherited’ an sxk dna60 bb from a friend who inadvertently flooded the circuit board and I’m guessing the juice went through the + pin hole.
I cleaned the circuit and it seems ok, did not fry.
Only the two wires connecting the power switch to the board somehow suffered. My friend tried to fix it before giving up and handing the problem over to me…. the switch itself got badly damaged in the process. Go figure.
My plan is to restore the bb (fix and solder the switch back on the board) and my idea is to ad a drop of silicone glue under the positive pin. Hope it’ll do the trick.
I’m interested also in any ideas on this topic.
#3 (permalink)      4/4/2022 1:36:13 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
wahuka
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Gigirat67 wrote:

I haven’t found the solution to that one but I have recently ´inherited’ an sxk dna60 bb from a friend who inadvertently flooded the circuit board and I’m guessing the juice went through the + pin hole.
I cleaned the circuit and it seems ok, did not fry.
Only the two wires connecting the power switch to the board somehow suffered. My friend tried to fix it before giving up and handing the problem over to me…. the switch itself got badly damaged in the process. Go figure.
My plan is to restore the bb (fix and solder the switch back on the board) and my idea is to ad a drop of silicone glue under the positive pin. Hope it’ll do the trick.
I’m interested also in any ideas on this topic.



I agree with you, I had also thought about applying Drop of Silicone Glue Under The Positive Pin.
Let's see if any more partner can illuminate us.

#4 (permalink)      4/4/2022 2:41:29 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
stuartd
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Had a few sxk bb's and never had any juice ingress but I did always use a sealant under the 510 pin so if it did no juice would get past the 510 pin
#5 (permalink)      4/4/2022 3:06:37 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
wahuka
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stuartd wrote:

Had a few sxk bb's and never had any juice ingress but I did always use a sealant under the 510 pin so if it did no juice would get past the 510 pin



What kind of sealer did you use?
You lifted the plate circuit to access the 510 pin?

#6 (permalink)      4/4/2022 5:53:21 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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7 Billets : 6 DNA, 1 SXK 70 watt / 2 original Billet USA, 4 SXK, 1 YFTK

Only one doesn't work, and it's partly due to liquid ruining the (sxk) chip.

All the DNAs work, though they are often flooded. Juice will seep into that gap, no matter how small. I've never bothered trying to seal the area - DNAs are coated, and have a lifetime warranty, often any juice from leaks will pool to the bottom interior of the mod, and seep out of the gap around the two inner panels, though it seems to more often leak out of the screen/button side, for some reason...

This is a good thing! It's better than juice staying locked inside, so remember that when changing inners - too tight is not good, so back off those screws a bit...the excess juice WILL find a way out.

As far as sealing up the positive pin, you can try it, be careful! the pin should be glued in, but i've been able to use tweezers and pull the pin up and out, so it's possible...how well it will seal the area is up to you, and the sealant you choose. I don't have any product suggestions, but silicone is good material to use.

Good luck, and if you find a good method, please let us know.

Edited on 4/5/2022 at 6:03 AM
What does he mean when he says words?
#7 (permalink)      4/4/2022 8:20:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
wahuka
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carrion4worm wrote:

7 Billets : 6 DNA, 1 SXK 70 watt / 2 original Billet USA, 4 SXK, 1 YFTK

Only one doesn't work, and it's partly due to liquid ruining the (sxk) chip.

All the DNAs work, though they are often flooded. Juice will seep into that gap, no matter how small. I've never bothered trying to seal the area - DNAs are coated, and have a lifetime warranty, often any juice from leaks with pool to the bottom interior of the mod, and seep out of the gap around the two inner panels, though it seems to more often leak out of the screen/button side, for some reason...

This is a good thing! It's better than juice staying locked inside, so remember that when changing inners - too tight is not good, so back off those screws a bit...the excess juice WILL find a way out.

As far as sealing up the positive pin, you can try it, be careful! the pin should be glued in, but i've been able to use tweezers and pull the pin up and out, so it's possible...how well it will seal the area is up to you, and the sealant you choose. I don't have any product suggestions, but silicone is good material to use.

Good luck, and if you find a good method, please let us know.



Thanks for the advice of loosening the screws.
I planned to use a hot silicone pistol from which it is used for crafts, move the panel circuit and apply silicone around the positive cable under the pin, I think that with that it would be sealed the entrance to the circuit. Now I am looking at some video that as to disassemble the interior panel to move the plate to have good vision under the pin.

#8 (permalink)      4/5/2022 2:22:45 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Gigirat67
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Wahuka, if you go down that road beware of the fragile strip connecting the board to the screen. My advice if you plan to access the positive pin from the inside : don't try to lift the board while the screen is in place ! It's best in my experience to take out the screen (with extreme care :), and then to lift the board.
#9 (permalink)      4/5/2022 3:44:34 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
wahuka
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Gigirat67 wrote:

Wahuka, if you go down that road beware of the fragile strip connecting the board to the screen. My advice if you plan to access the positive pin from the inside : don't try to lift the board while the screen is in place ! It's best in my experience to take out the screen (with extreme care :), and then to lift the board.



Thanks for the advice, there is some other way to seal it different from the one I have in mind?

#10 (permalink)      4/5/2022 4:43:06 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Gigirat67
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wahuka wrote:

Gigirat67 wrote:
Wahuka, if you go down that road beware of the fragile strip connecting the board to the screen. My advice if you plan to access the positive pin from the inside : don't try to lift the board while the screen is in place ! It's best in my experience to take out the screen (with extreme care :), and then to lift the board.

Thanks for the advice, there is some other way to seal it different from the one I have in mind?




Nope, that's more or less what I had in mind myself

#11 (permalink)      4/5/2022 6:02:16 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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+1 details
yep, that screen ribbon makes things very tough. Not worth the danger to your device, in my opinion. If you've never tried it, well, you have to navigate the screen into, and out of, a very narrow slot where the chance of kinking, or disconnecting the ribbon can be likely.

Hope you have steady hands! I've done it a couple times, and it's only because the billet was already not working. I seriously recommend the method I described above a bit - using very pointy tweezers to pull the pin up from the boro recess. there is enough wire and solder where the pin will lift out of it's hole a couple centimeters, giving you the opportunity to try to seal the outer pin, then reinsert.

I just hate when "preventative" efforts result in a paperweight - which ever method you choose, take your time and relax - I'm sure you'll do fine.
What does he mean when he says words?