Product Reviews


  • JoinedMay 2014
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  • Reviews 48
  • Kudos3894
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These are excellent read on to get the best from them
Like anything with exit holes they will leak eventually if not set up right
I now have 5 of these Smoketroopers :-)

I read the reviews and I see people struggling but this is due to user experience rather than a bad product, if you look back my first review of them threw the toys out of the pram also,

Here's my builds

24 AWG Dual = 10 or 12 wraps each coil and produces a 0.3 and 0.6 coil set up each time

27 AWG Dual = 10 wraps and again a 0.6 coil is achieved,

I'm going to order some 25 and 26 AWG soon to see how they go in it as I think 25 will be the trade of thickness over durability

Now to help you set up, ditch the free kanthal and wick, that's right in the bin with it as both are only any good if you are a hitman who does contracts on small stuffed teddy bear toys,

Make your coils around a 2mm rod and heat them on the hob and use some pliers to gently compress them,

Now thread the ends through the atty base but use odd patterns, this is like this -0 X 0 X- so that's use 1-3 posts on one side and 2-4 on the other rather than trying to use 1-2 3-4, tighten the outer post and move the coil into position roughly over the air hole, now tighten both screws in the posts you are working on, fire the atty on the mod and use the pliers again to compress the coil together fully, (slowly does it or you deform it) once it's neat and in the correct position for you adjust the legs or fully tighten (this is where 27+ awg gets snapped off so I don't advise using it)

Once you are happy the coil is as you want it tighten it fully (this is where heavy wire is king as it doesn't get cut through) then lift the first coil as high as it will go to reveal sight of the other internal post for coil 2

Thread coil 2 though and again get it in a rough position where you need it over the air hole, pulse again (you may need more watts this time) and tighten

You should now be able to get hold of the middle leg and wiggle it until it breaks the excess off, clip the outer post leg, now put the chimney on to ensure the coils aren't fouling it (10-12 wraps of 24 AWG is a tight fit btw)

Now the science of less or no leaking, cut a strip of cotton ( I use Johnson cotton baby pads and pull them into two flat halves) cut your strips to about 2mm in width and twist one end to enable it to go through the coil fully

Now once both are through cut the ends leaving about 10mm either side hanging out, wet the wicks with ejuice and then tuck the tails under but on the the deck of the atty (you may need to trim some more of if the chimney won't wit as it's wicked, stay inside the outer circumference of the tank base and it should be ok), (don't thread the channels or it dry hits) you need enough cotton sitting on the deck to absorb but not allow juice a route to the air holes, once you have this put the chimney on, tank glass on, cap on fully tightened and turn it upside down, remove the fill screw and fill her up, replace the screw and turn the atty upright, you should now see traces of juice in the side holes, holding the atty with the holes furthest away from you simply flick the excess juice out until it stops, wipe it up and fit to the mod, puff on!

Now if you get NO ATTY warnings on your mod now, undo and gently tighten the copper fire pin in the base, you need to simply turn it to feel the bite not screw it home hard or you'll strip the thread and it'll all be bin fodder then,

If you get resistance dancing i.e jumping from .04 to 2.5 to 0.8 etc etc check the leg post screws as after heating they can become loose the first few times,

If you follow my methods you'll only ever build this once, the 24AWG simply lasts and lasts, a few dry burns and new wicks and it's like new again,

Overall this is a fine low cost atty for the sub community, I don't imagine a Subtank being any better or less leaky, RDA's and RBA's by nature have to have holes in them, as any Capt of a ship what happens then, happy vaping Ladles & Jellystraps.
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